The sleepy town of STURGIS , thirty miles north of Rapid City, comes to life in a big way during the first full week of August, when the world-famous Sturgis Rally and Races (PO Box 507, SD 57785; tel 605/347-9158, ) packs out virtually every motel and campground in the region with motorcycle enthusiasts. For the rest of the year, bikers have to make do with an abundance of Harley souvenirs in the downtown stores and the worthy Sturgis Motorcycle Museum and Hall of Fame , 1344 Main St (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm; $3). East of town, off Hwy-34, the volcanic outcrop which dominates Bear Butte State Park stands as a lonely sentinel, detached from the rest of the hills. Hundreds of Native Americans come to this site on retreat each year - to avoid disturbing anyone, check with the park's visitor center (tel 605/347-5240) before setting out on its excellent hike to the summit. Campers can secure a tent site within the park for $6.

Of the wide range of motels in Sturgis, the reasonably central National 9 Junction Inn , 1802 S Junction Ave (tel 605/347-2506; $50-75), represents the best value. The lure of breakfast, burgers and overpriced souvenirs is hard to resist at the garish Roadkill Café , 1333 Main St (open only during summer; tel 605/347-4502). The Sturgis visitor center (tel 605/347-2556, ) lies off I-90 exit 32.