Though South Dakota's second largest town, RAPID CITY is all but swamped with family-fun attractions, but it makes a convenient base for exploring the charms of the Black Hills' lesser communities. In town, the Journey Museum , 222 New York St (daily 9am-5pm; $6), leads you through time, beginning with the geologic evolution of the Plains and the era of dinosaurs, right through the life of the Plains Indians to the pioneers who invaded their territory.

Rapid City offers the cheapest lodgings in the Black Hills, although summer rates top $50 almost everywhere. The Bavarian wood trimmings and Sioux soft furnishings of the delightful Hotel Alex Johnson , 523 Sixth St (tel 605/342-1210 or 1-800/888-2539; $50-130), provide a great escape from dull corporate decor prevalent in Rapid City, while the Ramkotta Inn , I-90 exit 59, (tel 605/343-8550; $75-100), is clean and right off the highway. Robert's Roost , 627 South St (tel 605/341-3434; up to $35), is a little-known youth hostel with comfortable beds for $16 a night. Both the food and beer at Firehouse Brewing Co , 610 Main St (tel 605/348-1915) - which has plenty of outdoor seating - are worth sampling; while B&L Bagels , 512 Main St (tel 605/399-1777), is a convenient bakery and deli. Greyhound comes in at 333 Sixth St. The visitor center is located in the Civic Center, 444 Mount Rushmore Rd N (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; tel 605/343-1744 or 1-800/487-3223, ). There's internet access at the Prince and Pauper Bookstore, 902 Mount Rushmore Rd (tel 605/342-7964) or at the Public Library, 610 Quincy St.